Baghdad or Bust: Diary of a Matchless ride through Europe and the Middle East in 1964

In 1964, two young architects went on an adventurous ride of discovery from London to Baghdad and back on a 1958 Matchless motorbike and cargo sidecar. They didn’t have sponsors, GPS or cellphone communication, and were on their own. It started out as a study tour of architectural masterpieces, breathtaking mosques and ancient Graeco-Roman cities, but they got more than they bargained for. There were humorous moments as well as serious drama. In parts of the Middle East they were constantly confronted by heavily armed military and police, and experienced hostilities, tricky situations and frustration when crossing borders in the strife-ridden Kurdish areas of Iraq and Syria. But there was also Arab courtesy and hospitality, including two nights hosted by the Iraqi Army, after unintentionally riding through a checkpoint without stopping. In the Middle East they generally slept rough in ditches, and there were bizarre encounters during a three-day desolate desert crossing, the only means of navigation being by following power lines. Unfamiliar architecture, varied religious views and cultural mores all added to their ‘overseas experience’. The motorbike needed constant attention with repairs and adjustments to keep it going. It only just made it back to London with a dying motor and the frame held together with wire and a piece of angle iron. Kevin Clark presents a richly illustrated light hearted and finely balanced mix of historical and architectural content in his account of a motorcycle road trip. His diaries and memorabilia were rediscovered recently in the back of a cupboard. The Middle East is still in turmoil, and little has changed, in fact it’s a lot worse now. Baghdad or Bust will appeal to all travellers, bikers, architects and those with an interest in the Middle East.